PCT day 36 - mile 766 to mile 778 (Mt Whitney)
"Wherever you go. There you are." [graffiti on the shelter wall on top of Mt Whitney]
People were telling me when I said I enjoy the desert section of PCT "just wait until Sierras" and I was just nodding my head. Sure mountains are beautiful but the desert surprised me with its many faces. Then after leaving Kennedy Meadows, Sierras were quite beautiful but nothing outstanding, until today.
I wish i could split this day into two separate days, as there was so much to take in. All the way through it I felt simultaneously as I was in Disney movie, on a different planet or that it all just wasn't real. Sadly no amount of pictures or words will be able to describe it fully, but I'll do my best.
I woke up forty five minutes past midnight and begun the night ascent of Mount Whitney the highest point on the entire Pacific Crest Trail. It has been timed do reach the summit by the sunrise, many other hikers decided to do the same thing and I could see their torches glowing in the darkness as we walked, sometimes I would mistaken them for the stars the sky was full of. It was a very meditative experience.
I reached the summit few minutes past 5am alongside another ten hikers. It was freezing cold even with all the layers on, everyone was hiding between the rocks to avoid the wind. I only dared to take few pictures as my hands were freezing cold (I left the gloves in hiker box in Kennedy Meadows, smart move). Sunrise was quite spectacular revealing mountain ranges all around us it surely was worth the hassle to get here so early. I stayed at the top until 6am and started the descent back to Crabtree Ranger Station (I slack packed so I left most of my things in the tent over there).
Going back down was also incredibly satisfying, as if we ascended Mount Whitney blindfolded and now we were able to see exactly what was hidden from us. Lakes (some of them still frozen), meadows, streams full of trouts. I could hear pack of coyotes howling somewhere in the distance and seen a big bird of prey hovering over the landscape - it all looked so idyllic and almost not real.
I arrived at the camp before the midday and here is where in hindsight I made a mistake, because I should have stayed there for the night. Mount Whitney is not technically a part of the PCT and a portion of hikers actually skip it altogether. But since it's such a highlight of the trail and is even included in the PCT permit there's not much reason to skip it, and I'm happy that I didn't.
Once in camp I packed my gear, had a lunch and left on trail, at this point PCT joins in with another popular walk called John Muir Trail which is well signposted so it's easier to find the way. I wasn't expecting much from the 12 additional miles I decided to do before stopping before Forester Pass, but boy oh boy was I wrong. The trail looked absolutely stunning, with 360 views of mountain ranges covered in snow, sandy, very alien looking plains with no vegetation, streams also got bigger with lots of water flowing through them I could barely keep my shoes dry while crossing, this short section alone would make for an incredible day.
And then as I was approaching the campsite, landscape opened even further with big patches of melting snow creating crisp clean and dynamic streams. With the day being warm even at this altitude I decided to jump in to one as our Lord intended and have a quick bath! It was dreadfully cold but I enjoyed all 30 seconds of it, afterall how often will I have a chance to do something like this again? Well, maybe tomorrow!
The closer I got to the campsite the more snow I had to walk through, and because it was quite late it was all soft so I been post holing in it up to my knees. It was worth it, campsite was really good and strategically positioned before snow covered Forester Pass. Snow will harden in the morning so I should be able to walk on it using the micro spikes, at least that's the plan.
It was a great day with spectacular views.
Morning Mt Whitney summit:
Campsite:
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