Posts

Isle of Skye Trail (day 3) - Portree to Duntulm [The End]

Image
Amazing day of hiking, it's almost like Isle of Skye Trail had two faces, one before and one after Portree, the second one was why I came here for! Trail was following cliffs for first few miles until it reached the road and first outstanding part of the trail Old Man of Storr rock formation, place was teeming with tourists and with a good reason, the mountain was beautiful. From here path followed a ridge and then an endurance rollercoaster commenced of climbing cliffs, the view on both sides of the island was great and well worth the effort. I've seen quite a few hikers going south as well. Finally the Quiraing revealed itself, an otherworldly landslip at the end of Trotternish ridge, an absolutely spectacular rock formation with hundreds of tourists walking it's 4 mile circuit. It was truly worth to hike across the Isle of Skye to see this and I hope I will one day return and explore this special place again. From here trail dropped to the sea level and followed a coasta...

Isle of Skye Trail (day 2) - Kilbride to Portree

Image
Big day, I used up the only sunny day best I could. To be fair trail all the way to Sligachan was very straightforward, a lot of roadwalking, no climbs at all but the surroundings were very charming. I had a quick coffee at Sligachan and carried on through surprisingly muddy track along the Loch Sligachan it was only an hour though before the trail was running along a perfectly dry and even road again. I've arrived at Portree just after 5pm, had a portion of chips, resupplied at a Coop and hiked out of this extremely busy but very beautiful place, it was my last shopping before the end of trail as there wasn't any more towns along the way. Trail leading out of Portree was surprisingly tough, after walking along the coast there was a long climb up to the top of a cliff followed by a windy and boggy walk on top of it. I've managed to find fairly sheltered spot here and decided to call it a day with nearly forty miles covered today my legs were not having it any longer. Good n...

Isle of Skye Trail (day 1) - Broadford to Kilbride

Image
After finishing Scottish National Trail I've had a week to spare, and what was better to use it on than another hike! A friend of mine recommended me to walk Isle of Sky Trail, a fairly new and unofficial path in Scotland. It span for 80 miles across the Isle of Skye. Many other people I knew has recommended me to visit the island before so I took this opportunity. Durness where I was staying last night wasn't that far away, plus Scottish government released new bus tickets discounts, so you could get a bus across Scottish Highlands for £2! Because I had to change at Inverness, I paid £4 for a five hour journey, that was nuts. I've arrived at Broadford at 4pm and after a quick coffee I've jumped on the trail. I've met pretty much straight away a dentist from Germany called Henrietta also hiking the trail, she did some hiking in New Zealand before so we had plenty to talk about, she also showed me a cool video of a kiwi bird she took while hiking in Stuart Island. I...

SNT (day 19) - Sandwood Beach to Cape Wrath Lighthouse (Cape Wrath Trail) [The End]

Image
Last 8 miles of the trail went fairly well, it was basically a pathless cliff walk across military shooting range but luckily the soldiers were off duty. I said goodbye to the Sandwood Beach in the morning and proceeded through the grassy and uneven landscape towards my final destination. Lighthouse would make an occasional appearance along the coast as I progressed. About four hours later I've arrived at the end of my journey! Johnny the lighthouse keeper was there prepping breakfast for other three hikers who stayed in the bunkhouse last night, I've joined in and had some eggs and beans in roast and a white coffee. The sea was too rough this morning so the boat back to Durness got canceled, Johnny offered us a lift as far as the road went (there was no road connection from Cape Wrath to mainland) after which we had to walk our way back to civilization. It took few hours but at 1pm I've crossed the last bridge leading to a road towards Durness, after 15 minutes I've ca...

SNT (day 18) - Loch Glendhu to Sandwood Beach (Cape Wrath Trail)

Image
Big day, I've placed myself strategically for the last push, in the most remote beach in UK (apparently). First few miles in the morning were an easy road walk. The stubborn horses were gone, perhaps they went back through the same hole in the fence they escaped yesterday. Cape Wrath wouldn't be itself if there wasn't a pathless section every now and then and soon enough there was one, soon after climbing Ben Dreavie, next four miles were a boggy, shaggy, inarticulate mess (still beautiful though). Gradually it became a road and then the process repeated itself along the lake with super complicated name: Loch a' Gharbh-bhaid Mhoir, very heavy metal sounding name indeed, I loved it. After hiking in deep mud along steep metal sounding lake for few hours, trail eventually surfaced at Rhiconich, small village with police station at which I've been told by Dave I met yesterday, Cape Wrath Firing Range report was posted and indeed there was!  Basically, last 8 miles of th...