Te Araroa (day 27) - War Monument to Johnson's Campsite / mile 768

"This hamish coleslaw can last a month" Chef at the Blue Duck Cafe

Today since I diverted from the main path at Whakahoro I haven't seen another human being.

I left Couper's Crossing Farm as planned at 6am, few other hikers were also awake but it looked like they were waiting for breakfast at 8am. I followed the road towards Whakahoro 15 miles south where the river section was starting. Several vans full of tourists with attached canoe trailers drove past me. By the time I've reached the village, they were all floating on the Wanganui river and the place was empty.

I went for breakfast to Blue Duck Cafe, they were using convincing slogan: "Last coffee for the next four days". I've asked if kitchen was opened for food, chef said they were so I've ordered ham and cheese toastie and a latte, it was 20$ in total. Toastie arrived ten minutes later with a special coleslaw that apparently lasted for a month, and it must have been nearly that as my belly did not quite agreed with it. Toastie and coffee were great though, I've ate quickly while listening to few tourists from Auckland criticizing everything and everyone. It was interesting to hear that even New Zealanders had their special breed of moaners, definitely an exception from the overwhelmingly polite citizens of this nation.

Whakahoro was the point where my inland path was diverting from 99% of TA hikers taking the paddling route down the river, my way was leading along the cycling path to Bridge to Nowhere and Mangapurua Landing, where tomorrow at 2pm a jet boat was taking me to Pipiriki. It was the only alternative option available, for a reason unknown to me there was no continuous hiking path through Wanganui National Park. 

From that point on I haven't seen anybody for the rest of the day, only birds, sheep, horses, some highland cattle and few feral goats I managed to scare as they were grazing on the path. I untangled a sheep with it's head stuck in the fence, one of the horses was happy to be petted, it was enough variance to make the walk enjoyable.

Eventually I arrived at Johnson's Campsite 10 miles away from the landing, it was shared with few other huts and tent sites that must have been used by hunters, trappers and builders repairing the track. Unfortunately no one else was camping here tonight. Staying at the semi opened hut wasn't possible as the swallows build a nest inside and were currently feeding their chicks. Campsite was filled with bird song, I've spotted few colourful, noisy parrots jotting around, I will have to ask what are they called next time I've got a chance.